This beloved soup has been a staple of traditional Cypriot cuisine for generations.

In the past, families raised their own animals – mainly goats and chickens – while those who could afford it also kept sheep. Fresh milk, essential for making this soup, was and still is collected daily. Those without livestock bought milk from local farmers, a practice that continues today for making trahana and other dairy products.

For the richest, most flavourful trahana, goat and sheep milk – either mixed or separate – is ideal. Once collected, the milk is strained through a cheesecloth to remove any impurities before being poured into a large clay pot known as a stamna. The porous texture of the stamna, allows excess moisture to gradually drain. To accelerate fermentation, unstrained Greek yogurt can be diluted into the milk. Other traditional fermentation methods include adding a small pouch of old trahana (later removed), lemon juice, or—most intriguingly—slicing unripe green grape berries and dropping them into the milk.

Daily milking was essential to accumulate enough milk for the process. The warmth of fresh milk encourages the growth of the existing microorganisms responsible for fermentation, giving trahana its signature tangy flavour and aroma. However, it should never smell unpleasant, as this indicates spoilage and the prevalence of pathogenic bacteria. To prevent harmful bacterial growth and extend shelf life, salt is added.

Once the milk has soured sufficiently, it is boiled in a large, polished copper kettle known as a hartzi in the Cypriot dialect. Garlic is added for both preservation and flavour. As the milk’s temperature increases, the garlic rises to the surface, signalling that it is time to add the wheat. The ratio of milk to wheat is always 1:3. In the past, wheat was either purchased or grown by those with farmland. A specific variety of hard wheat called Mavrotheri was traditionally used for making trahana. After harvesting, it was customary to take it to the local miller, where it was ground using a donkey-powered mill.

The wheat is gradually stirred into the hot milk using a long wooden spoon, while constantly stirring to prevent it from sticking to the bottom. Once the mixture has thickened and absorbed the necessary amount of wheat, it is removed from the heat. Additional garlic may be added at this stage, depending on preference. While still warm, the trahana is shaped into balls or cut into various forms, then left to dry on a woven basket called a tsestos, covered to protect it from insects. Different regions have their own preferred shapes for trahana, and it can be enjoyed either fresh or dried.

Trahana production takes place between July and September, when the warm weather ensures proper drying. This period also coincides with the wheat harvest, making it the perfect time for preparation.

This soup is traditionally cooked with halloumi cheese. Some people also add fresh tomato and/or chicken, and it can be prepared using chicken broth. In certain regions, a sauce made with eggs and lemon juice is used for extra richness and flavour. The key to an exceptional trahana soup is making it as milky as possible. It is best enjoyed with toasted bread and a sprinkle of freshly crushed black pepper.

Trahanas was prepared by families for their own families but also for the rest of the villagers. Communities used to share and exchange goods with each other. Among the older generations, this custom remains alive – a way of life that has always been, and one I sincerely hope will never fade.

I had the opportunity to learn how to milk goats and made my own trahana after I learned this “craft” first hand from Mrs Efpraxia in Doros village. It was a unique opportunity and it is my dream that in the far future, I will keep my own animals and prepare my own products in my small cottage.