I had the privilege of participating in the preparation of these traditional bagels with Mrs. Stavroulla Tziaouri from Trikomo, whom I interviewed, and her daughter, Mrs. Elena Chambiaouri. These bagels have been a cherished part of Cypriot cuisine for generations, typically baked for Christmas and Easter.

The process begins three days before baking, as the sourdough starter needs to be prepared. If an existing starter is available, it must be refreshed the night before by adding water and flour to nourish the microorganisms – this process is known as backslopping. Otherwise, a new batch is made from scratch. A small portion of sourdough is always set aside for future use, ensuring the tradition continues. The dough is made using a blend of strong village-type flour, farina (type 00), and semolina.

To start, lard is incorporated into the flour and semolina mixture by rubbing it in, creating a texture similar to sand. Next, sugar and aromatic spices such as mahlab, cinnamon, and cloves are added. Separately, Anari cheese and the sourdough starter are dissolved in warm milk before being mixed into the flour. No water is used in this recipe – traditionally, goat’s milk was preferred, as most families had their own animals, but today, cow’s milk is commonly used.

Once kneaded, the dough is divided into portions and left to rest. It is then shaped into strips and formed into the distinctive U-shape of these bagels. Sesame seeds, which have been soaked in water beforehand, are sprinkled on top before the bagels are left to proof. They are ready for baking when a gentle press of the dough leaves an indentation that does not spring back. Traditionally, they are baked in a wood-fired oven, but a conventional oven works as well. Moreover, the bagels can be left in the oven at a low temperature to dry out and turn into rusks.

These bagels have a delicate sweetness, enhanced by the warm aromas of spices. The sourdough lends a subtle tanginess, balancing the flavours perfectly. I had the pleasure of tasting them fresh from the oven, and in my opinion, they are among the best bagels I have ever had.